Moulding: Part 1

List of Products, Tools and Materials Used

·         Board

·         Clay

·         Pipette

·         Sculpting tools

·         Sealant spray

·         Tinsil 8030 parts A and B

·         Thixotropic

·         Paint brush

·         Paper towel

·         Gloves

·         Plaster bandage

·         Plaster

·         Vaseline

Step-by-step Instructions for Moulding: Part 1

1.    The next stage of this process is to make a silicone mould of the face cast and ears. Firstly secure the cast by placing it onto a board then adding clay under any uneven edges so it holds still.

 

2.    Any areas of the cast which curve round would cause the next mould to lock and it wouldn’t be able to be moved without breaking it. So to prevent this build up clay around the sides of the face till it’s a straight edge downwards, use sculpting tools so get it smooth. This will also help to keep it in place.

 

3.    Build the clay outwards about an inch, then using a pipette create little dents in the clay these will act as keys locking the mould and casts together making sure the mould will stay in place whilst setting and to help stop it locking. Also any areas like on the ears where it’s got a curved edge should be filled with clay. The picture below shows this.

4.    Then build another wall of clay but leaving a small cap between the two as shown in the picture. This will work as a barrier to keep the mould in place. A second wall didn’t need to be built around the ears as the lid I had placed them on worked as a barrier.

5.    Then spray all over the cast with a sealant to stop the clay from cracking.

6.    Next is mixing the two materials that make the mixture for the silicone mould. I used Tinsil 8030 parts A and B for this mixture. To start with I poured 500 grams of parts B into a tub then 50 grams of part A. For whatever measurement of part B you use you’ll need to work out 10% and that’s how much of part A needs to be used. Part A was coloured which made it much easier to see when the mixture was evenly mixed.

7.    Once it’s fully mixed add a very small amount of thickening liquid called Thixotropic. This will thicken the mixture to ensure the product sticks to the face cast and it can be spread more evenly.

8.    The first layer is applied with either a paint brush or your fingers. This is to make sure the silicone gets into all the creases, detail and to prevent air bubbles.

 

9.    Then with the brush apply a much thicker layer. Making sure all the area is covered including the keys and area around the cast. When it has cured another layer is added. Once it is starting to cure use a damp paper towel to lightly pat over the moulds to give it a smoother finish.

 

10.  This need to be done on both the ears as well as the face. See the pictures below.

 

11.  Once the silicone mould has cured the next part is to cast the final mould of the face and ears so I am able to start sculpting. Before I can remove the silicone mould, a jacket needs to be formed out of plaster bandage to keep it stable when the plaster is been poured into the silicone mould. I created the jacket in two halves. This is to make it easier to remove from the mould. I applied the plaster bandage to the first half of the face. Once that had set I put Vaseline down the middle edge to stop the second half from sticking. I then applied the second half which slightly over lapped and let it set. The ears did not need to be covered in two halves as they were only small.

 

12.  Once the jacket has dried, it can be carefully pulled apart away from the silicon mould. Then the mould can be very carefully peeled away from the cast. Be careful so that it doesn’t rip.

13.  Once removed clean the moulds of any clay that is on them. Then place back into the jacket and put them both onto an even and secure surface. I used a large bowl and laid it on the top which kept it secure. This is so that the plaster can be added.

14.  Using the same technique as before add one cup of water and two cups of plaster and mix them together. Firstly use your fingers and put the plaster into the creases and detail of the mould. Pour the rest of the plaster into the moulds of the face and ears. As it starts to set move it up the side so everywhere is covered. Leave it to dry.

15.  Once dry remove the mould by carefully peeling it off. This will leave you with a new cast that also has the keys around the side and better edges so your final piece will not lock. It is now ready to be sculpted onto.

I am really pleased with my finished cast and was really pleased to see it had kept all the detail in the skin. I am not very much looking forward to Sculpting my design.